Conservation and restoration treatment of nineteenth century royal malay textiles through scientific analysis

Abstract

The objects under research represent three 19th century Songket pieces belonging to the Royal family of Malaysia, preserved in the National Museum of Malaysia collection. Two of these represent the Indonesian art in their weaving technique and motifs, while the third one displays Indian influence. There is a lack of awareness among Malaysians on the preserving of songket textiles towards identifying deterioration factors, preventive conservation and restoration of historical songket textiles. This study aims to establish a new method for the conservation of historical songket textiles. In order to conserve and restore the samples, identification of the material technology on natural and metal threads, weaving as well as dye and motifs were carried out. The fabrics were graphically documented by macroscopic and microscopic observation and the degree of damage was assessed. It became evident that by exposing fabrics to improper storage and display technique had caused considerable harm to the physical, chemical and mechanical parts of the samples. This project is integrated in three phases: historical analysis, scientific analysis and experimental research. In historical analysis the background history of Malay songket textile is studied to identify the materials and techniques through the published and unpublished literary references. Scientific analysis is used to analyze the materials used in songket textile under investigation by examining the natural and metal fibers using chemical analysis, field emission scanning electron microscopy (FESEM) and energy dispersive spectroscopy (EDS) and identification of dye and pigments using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). The condition survey was carried out and analyzed through the original historic samples to identify its feature and behavior against physical, chemical and biological agencies. The experiments on the historical samples were also done to evaluate the materials composition through scientific analysis in order to choose the best method for conservation and restoration techniques and to prepare a scientific guideline for preservation of songket textile. Finally, after accurate survey and examination, the researcher developed a new approach of conservation and restoration that was adopted in the National Museum of Malaysia.