Physical analysis of kelingkan shawls as sustainable artefacts museums in Malaysia

Abstract

Kelingkan embroidery is one of traditional hand-made Malay historical textiles which is currently facing a state of declination in Peninsular Malaysia due to diminishing number of surviving skilful artisans. Initial survey conducted on the collection of kelingkan embroideries in several local museums in Peninsular Malaysia revealed certain degrees of degradations and lack of systematic management on their inventory, storage and conservation methods. The main aim of this study is to safeguard and maintain the well-being and sustainability of kelingkan embroideries as national heritage. Hence, the study embarks on a series of identification, classification and documentation of kelingkan shawls as a form of kelingkan embroideries in terms of their physical characteristics and conditions. The case study is limited to 25 samples of Malay kelingkan shawls embroidered by satin stitch technique and stored in the textile storage room of the Department of Museums Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur. Multiple methods of data collection conducted include visual observation, microscopic analyses and burning tests supported by literatures, interviews and participatory observation. The findings reveal similarities and differences on physical characteristics of kelingkan shawls which can be grouped into materials, colours, shapes, patterns and motifs. The condition of kelingkan shawls are consequently classified into good-fair, fair, poor and very poor condition with different degrees of physical, chemical and biological damages. The output of the research is the documentation of kelingkan shawls in the form of inventory detailing their physical characteristics, conditions, and damages. This inventory will serve as databank, beneficial for curators and conservators in curative and preventive conservation of kelingkan shawls. In conclusion, further researches in the curative and preventive conservation of the embroidery are recommended as to ensure its continuous wellbeing and to contribute to the currently limited literatures in the preservation of kelingkan embroidery.